One Soufflé at a Time: A Memoir of food and France by Anne Willan

by
December 2013–January 2014, no. 357

One Soufflé at a Time: A Memoir of food and France by Anne Willan

St Martin’s Press, US$27.99 hb, 313 pp

One Soufflé at a Time: A Memoir of food and France by Anne Willan

by
December 2013–January 2014, no. 357

Not everyone’s father sends his daughter a brace of pheasants while she is studying economics at Cambridge. With a choice of two gas rings on which to cook them, Anne Willan eviscerated and plucked the birds, then used one gas ring to cook a pheasant casserole and the other to make a caramel custard that she ‘steamed over a galvanised tin laundry bucket’. She was, I’d guess, nineteen.

Gay Bilson reviews 'One Soufflé at a Time: A memoir of food and France' by Anne Willan

One Soufflé at a Time: A Memoir of food and France

by Anne Willan

St Martin’s Press, US$27.99 hb, 313 pp

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Comment (1)

  • Posted by Pamela Fawcett
    09 December 2013

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