One Soufflé at a Time: A Memoir of Food and France by Anne Willan

Reviewed by
December 2013–January 2014, no. 357
One Soufflé at a Time

One Soufflé at a Time: A Memoir of Food and France

by Anne Willan

St Martin’s Press, US$27.99 hb, 313 pp, 9780312642174

One Soufflé at a Time: A Memoir of Food and France by Anne Willan

Reviewed by
December 2013–January 2014, no. 357

Not everyone’s father sends his daughter a brace of pheasants while she is studying economics at Cambridge. With a choice of two gas rings on which to cook them, Anne Willan eviscerated and plucked the birds, then used one gas ring to cook a pheasant casserole and the other to make a caramel custard that she ‘steamed over a galvanised tin laundry bucket’. She was, I’d guess, nineteen.

One Soufflé at a Time

One Soufflé at a Time: A Memoir of Food and France

by Anne Willan

St Martin’s Press, US$27.99 hb, 313 pp, 9780312642174

From the New Issue

comment (1)

  • Having been privileged to cook with Anne and the late and Great Ferdinand Chambrette, if only for a very short time at Chateau du fey, in Burgundy, many years ago! I was touched by a culinary genius or two! I never tire of Anne's books, I actually pester her for more! This book, is something else! I am so grateful to you for allowing us in to your private world! I have a very high respect for you which has gone to new heights. Thanks Anne for sharing this treasure with us all!
    Posted by Pamela Fawcett
    Monday, 09 December 2013 20:04

Leave a comment

If you are an ABR subscriber, you will need to sign in to post a comment.

If you have forgotten your sign in details, or if you receive an error message when trying to submit your comment, please email your comment (and the name of the article to which it relates) to ABR Comments. We will review your comment and, subject to approval, we will post it under your name.

Please note that all comments must be approved by ABR and comply with our Terms & Conditions.