One Soufflé at a Time

One Soufflé at a Time

One Soufflé at a Time: A Memoir of Food and France

by Anne Willan

St Martin’s Press, US$27.99 hb, 313 pp, 9780312642174

Gay Bilson

Gay Bilson

Gay Bilson was, for twenty-five years (1973–1998), a restaurateur and cook in Sydney. She has created and directed several events


Not everyone’s father sends his daughter a brace of pheasants while she is studying economics at Cambridge. With a choice of two gas rings on which to cook them, Anne Willan eviscerated and plucked the birds, then used one gas ring to cook a pheasant casserole and the other to make a caramel custard that she ‘steamed over a galvanised tin laundry bucket’. She was, I’d guess, nineteen.

Read the rest of this article by purchasing a subscription to ABR Online, or subscribe to the print edition to receive access to ABR Online free of charge.

If you are a single issue subscriber you will need to upgrade your subscription to view back issues.

If you are already subscribed, click here to log in.

Comments (1)

  • Leave a comment

    Having been privileged to cook with Anne and the late and Great Ferdinand Chambrette, if only for a very short time at Chateau du fey, in Burgundy, many years ago! I was touched by a culinary genius or two! I never tire of Anne's books, I actually pester her for more! This book, is something else! I am so grateful to you for allowing us in to your private world! I have a very high respect for you which has gone to new heights. Thanks Anne for sharing this treasure with us all!

    Monday, 09 December 2013 20:04 posted by Pamela Fawcett

Leave a comment

Please note that all comments must be approved by ABR and comply with our Terms & Conditions.

NB: If you are an ABR Online subscriber or contributor, you will need to login to ABR Online in order to post a comment. If you have forgotten your login details, or if you receive an error message when trying to submit your comment, please email your comment (and the name of the article to which it relates) to We will review your comment and, subject to approval, we will post it under your name.